What comes after the Pub at the End of the Universe?
In Southeast Portland, we’re about to find out.
Starting as soon as next week, the Creston-Kennilworth neighborhood’s labyrinthine former dive bar will reopen with several new businesses in its place. Those include The Electric, a new pizzeria from long-time Portland cook Jackson Wyatt (Von Ebert Brewing) and Holy Ghost, the latest bar from Three on a Match, the group behind The Old Gold, Paydirt, Tough Luck and the Hi Top Tavern. 28 Tigers, a new dumpling and noodle from Chris Bogart (BTU Brasserie) and Matt Wagner (Hellion Gallery), will join the complex once construction is complete.
When Wyatt first reached out to developer Kevin Cavenaugh about joining the project, he learned that a well-known pizzeria was already planning to come on board at what the 28 Tigers space. But when that fell through, Wyatt jumped at the chance to take over a micro restaurant space on the west side of the development’s courtyard.
Wyatt’s approach to pizza is a departure from the long-fermented doughs, hard-to-find flours and wood-fired ovens popular in Portland. Asked to describe his pizza style, Wyatt pulls out a recent cookbook from “Tim & Eric” comedian Eric Wareheim, flips to the pizza section, then mentions his love for “char bubs,” the blistered bubbles that pop up on the pizza’s end crust as it cooks in The Electric’s double-decker (you guessed it) electric oven.
Eventually, more of The Electric’s pizzas will be topped with seasonal produce from Wild Roots Farm. For now, Wyatt is keeping things simple, with a menu of 12″ pies designed to be eaten with a cocktail from Holy Ghost or a tall boy of Von Ebert or Wayfinder beer from the 300-square-foot pizzeria. Toppings include mozzarella, sausage, pepperoni cups, a Hawaiian and a meat-lover’s supreme. Vegetarians will find a tomato pie, and a second with mushrooms and shallot cream. Mixed olives and a beet-arugula salad with green goddess dressing round out the menu.
The Electric is one of at least six new Portland pizzerias opening this fall. Others include Meta Pizza, a new Brooklyn outfit from former Ración chef Anthony Cafiero; Cafe Olli, an upcoming pizza collective in the old Ned Ludd; Pacific Crust Pizza, an outdoors-inspired pizzeria in the old home of The Crown; Pizzeria Stellina, the latest contender in Sellwood-Moreland’s crowded pizza scene; and Pizza Kat, a New York-style pie shop from the folks at Crown Paella.
If you’ve driven down Southeast Gladstone Street lately, you might have spotted the striking lettering on a midnight blue wall hand painted by Borrowed Times Studio. The complex’s location is also directly across from the giant, asparagus-shaped agave that’s once-a-lifetime blooming drew crowds to the neighborhood last year. Guerilla, the developer behind the project, also runs Jolene’s First Cousin, a mixed-use development just up the road with street-level retail and both market-rate and low-cost apartments upstairs.
The Electric and Holy Ghost hope to open as soon as Wednesday, Nov. 17 at 2730 S.E. Gladstone St., with 28 Tigers to follow. Follow their Instagram pages for updates.
— Michael Russell, mrussell@oregonian.com, @tdmrussell
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Holy Ghost bar, The Electric pizzeria take over Pub at the End of the Universe space - OregonLive
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